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Going Bitless: The Ultimate Guide to Transitioning to Bitless Riding

Bits have been used to ride horses for over 5,000 years. Despite their prevalence, many riders are looking to leave bits behind altogether. Luckily, almost any horse can safely transition to bitless riding and enjoy the multitude of benefits. Better yet, the process of transitioning a horse to bitless riding is simple and easy.


Bits: A Harsh Reality

Despite their widespread use in traditional horseback riding, many riders are unaware of the effect of the bit on their horse.


Six different style bits laid out on a table
Bits come in many shapes and sizes

The bit sits in a small gap between the horse's last incisor and first molar where it exerts pressure on the tongue, palate, lips, and bars of the horse's mouth. Leverage bits are designed to put pressure on the horse's poll aswell. The many different sizes and styles of bits act on those pressure points differently.


While the bit can be a tool in gentle hands, it is all too often used carelessly. Bits have to be fitted to each horse taking into account their unique oral anatomy to ensure comfort. Often, horses need to have their wolf teeth removed to accommodate the bit.


But even when used effectively and well-fitting, bits are uncomfortable to many horses. Take a look at any high-level competition across disciplines and you will see horses with gaping mouths. This is an evasive maneuver as they try to release pressure on their sensitive oral cavity. Even adept and experienced riders can be unaware of the damage their bit is doing.

Three images of horses with their mouth open with a bitted bridle
Gaping mouths are a common sign of discomfort in bitted horses

Increased awareness about the effects of the bit has led many to turn to less harsh equipment, opting for snaffles instead of leverage bits and rubber instead of metal. However, many riders are doing away with bits altogether.


Benefits of Going Bitless

In 2018, researchers Bob Cook and Matthew Kibler stuied the benefits of transitioning horses from bits to bitless. The findings are eye-opening. Cook and Kibler compared the pain signals displayed by horses ridden first in a bit and then bitless. After switching to a bitless alternative, of the 66 horses studied, there was a substantial 87% reduction in pain signals, showing that the bit was the main cause of pain among the sample. Throughout the study, a whopping 65 of the 66 horses showed an aversion to the bit.


Horse trail riding in bitless bridle
Horses riding bitless are often calmer and happier

Multiple studies from across the globe have been able to replicate these findings, making the switch to bitless riding a worthwhile investment for any rider. The proven benefits of bitless riding include:


  • creating a more willing, happy, and comfortable horse

  • greater freedom of movement

  • less pain and distraction from the bit

  • reduced anxiety

  • better ability to take contact (depending on the bitless bridle you use)

  • less pressure in the mouth

  • improved communication between horse and rider


Beginner lessons horses to those performing at the highest levels of jumping, reining, and dressage can reap the benefits of bitless riding. However, horses that relied on bits their whole lives need to be properly trained to ride bitless safely. The process of transitioning to bitless is easy and straightforward for most horses.


Picking Your Bitless Bridle

Before transitioning to bitless riding, you need to have your bridle ready to go. While some riders may have success using just a halter, others who want more control, or a certain look will need to choose and properly fit a bitless bridle.


Types of Bitless Bridles

Before going bitless, it can be helpful to learn more about the different kinds of bitless bridles on the market. Each act on the horse's head is a slightly different way, like bits, so you will need to be sure to pick one that suits your horse and discipline.


Dr. Cook Bitless Bridle

A Dr. Cook from below, showing how the straps criss-cross under the jaw
Criss-cross design of a Dr. Cook

When someone says bitless bridle, the Dr. Cook is usually what comes to mind first. This bridle is unique because it has two straps that go from the horse's headtsall, cross under the jaw, and come out on the noseband where the reins attach. This creates a squeezing action on the horse's nose, poll, and under their jaw when pressure is applied to the reins.


To some horses, this is too much pressure, so be sure to introduce it slowly. Dr. Cooks are most commonly used in English riding and can be good for dressage or horses that tend to be strong.


Hackamore

Palomino horse wearing a hackamore
A standard hackamore

A hackamore adds shanks to the noseband, working similarly to a leverage bit. When the reins are used, the horse will feel pressure on their nose, chin groove, and poll. Hackamores come with different length shanks that increase poll pressure as they get longer.


Often hackamores are used for western or trail riding. Because of the shanks, it can be more difficult to turn your horse's head sideways, so they are most often used with neck reining or for traveling straight. The leverage will give you more stopping power, but be mindful of the pressure it exerts on the horse's sensitive nasal bone.

Bay horse in a western saddle and rope halter
Rope halter set up similar to a bosal

Bosal

Traditionally a bosal is made with stiff rawhide in a teardrop shape that forms the noseband with the reins connecting at the bottom. The bosal comes from vaquero tradition, although today many western riders are using it as a substitute for a bit. Some even use rope halters with the reins attached low to act in the same way as a bosal. Bosals work in a rocking motion on the horse's nasal bone so it is essential that they are fitted correctly and used with a gentle hand.


Side pull

Bay horse wearing a side pull bridle
A typical side pull

The most straightforward of the bitless bridles is a side pull. Side pulls can be found in several styles suited to both Western and English riding. Anyone can easily craft a side pull by attaching reins to the sides of a halter.


A side pull works in the same way as a halter, making it an easy transition for most horses. Because flexing the horse's head to the side is easy in a side pull, it a safe option for horses that bend to pressure easily. Side pulls can be used with nearly any horse in any discipline.


Fitting a Bitless Bridle

Regardless of the bitless bridle you choose, fitting it correctly is paramount to your horse's safety and comfort. Bitless bridles work by exerting pressure on the nasal bone. The lower on the horse's face you go, the more sensitive and fragile the bone becomes. Therefore, the noseband must be adjusted well above the tip of the nasal bone. However, put your nose band too high and it will rub on the sensitive facial tuberosity.

Image showing a too low noseband, just right, and too high
Bitless bridle adjusted too low; correct adjustment; and too high

Adjust your noseband so it sits 3 finger widths below the cheekbone. Be sure you can fit at least 2 fingers into the closed noseband. This will ensure your horse's comfort while riding bitless.


Transitioning to Bitless Riding

Even though our horses are already used to responding to pressure from a halter, it is not safe to jump right on without a bit. Therefore, making a gradual transition with ample prep work is essential. This way, you can get your horse accustomed to cues without a bit, making steering and stopping more reliable.


Ground Prep Work

Woman walking next to bay horse with a bitless bridle on
Transitioning to bitless riding starts on the ground

The best and safest way to start your transition to bitless riding is on the ground. This way you can hone the basics without being on the back of an out-of-control horse. Be sure to do these exercises in whatever bitless bridle you choose so your horse can get used to the sensation of the cues.


Stopping and backing up

When riding a horse, you need to be able to stop. Therefore, ensuring you have good brakes on the ground in your new bitless bridle is where you want to start.


Lead your horse around the arena and provide gentle pressure backward on the reins. It can help to say "Whoa" at the same time. When your horse stops, praise them. Once they have that down, you can apply a gentle pressure at the halt until they back up. Once they take a few steps release the pressure and reward them. Keep working the halt and back up until your horse responds to the lightest touches on the reins.


Yields

Chestnut horse moving his hind quarters around his forehand
Practice yields with your horse

Many riders feel like they cannot steer as well with a bitless bridle. Being able to move your horse's front end and hind end separately can help keep steering skills sharp even without a bit.


Practice yielding the forehand with a gentle touch at the girth. Move their hindquarters around their front end with a gentle touch a couple of inches behind the girth. This will allow you to reposition and steer the horse wihtout the bit. Over time these cues can be phased down, or abandoned altogether for smooth steering.


Flexing: your emergency brake

The last thing any rider wants is to be out of control on a runaway horse. Even with a bit, there is only so hard you can pull back to get a horse to stop. In a bitless bridle, flexing will become your emergency brake and allow you to stop your horse instantly, whenever you need to.

Horse flexing his nose to his barrel
Flexing will become your emergency brake while riding

To teach your horse how to flex, stand at their barrel, reach about halfway down one rein, and pull up towards their withers. The horse should turn their head to touch their barrel. Once their nose is at their barrel let go. Practice evenly on both sides until your horse responds to the lightest touch and is willing to keep their head in place for a couple of seconds.


Riding Bitless

Once your horse has the basics down, it's time to start riding. Always start slow, transitioning to a bitless bridle after riding with a bit at first if you have to.


Getting on for the first time

Bay horse with rider in bitless bridle
Start bitless riding in an enclosed space

Once your horse can back up, yield, and flex reliably on the ground, it is time to hop on for the first time. Keep your first few rides short and ALWAYS in a fully enclosed arena with minimal distractions. Use your first ride to practice the basics under saddle.


Stop, back up, yield hindquarters and forequarters, and flex until your horse is performing as well as they did on the ground. Then you can start working on steering and flexing at the walk. If your horse is calm, try a short trot, and bring them back to a halt afterward to test your breaks.


Continual training

Once your horse has the basics down under saddle, it's time to slowly reintroduce more advanced work. Stay in the arena until you're confident with your horse's obedience. Over time you can work up to riding at large. After a while, riding bitless will feel just as natural as with a bit but your horse will feel more comfortable and willing to work.


 

Taking the time to switch to bitless can eliminate pain and increase the enjoyment your horse has for their work. Going slow in the beginning, choosing the right bridle for your horse, and using positive reinforcement can help the transition go smoothly and successfully.

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